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The portion was large, and I encourage other diners to try it.Īlso, the Thai Sizzling Catfish ($19.95). Salmon, already so flavorful and distinct, combined with the tart and citrus-y sumac, the mellow sesame, and the bright and crunchy cucumber. I could not decide if the complex dish with many textures was too much competition or just plain lovely. Although the salmon arrived a bit dry, and the heap of mashed potatoes, while tasty, seemed inelegant beside such a delicate preparation (next time, I will request the rice), the tastes fascinated me. I was most curious about the Sesame Sumac Crusted Salmon ($19.95), served over fresh spinach and topped with cucumber chutney. Served with a choice of sides - Thai peanut sauce, Thai garlic or Cajun mayo, the two cakes were hamburger-sized, heavy with crabmeat, bound lightly with a flavorful breading, and fried to a golden and not-even-close-to-soggy crisp. The kitchen should feel especially proud of the Chesapeake Style Crab Cakes ($20.95). A simple preparation, for sure, but satisfying. Same for the Sesame Crusted Tuna Medallions ($12.95) - four thick circles of seared rare tuna, rolled in a sesame coating and served with a tangy soy vinaigrette. The hummus alone is worth the drive, but served in “make your own mini sandwich” form with accoutrements, and the experience felt like a casual, fun, communal snack time. This house-made hummus is delicious - lemony and garlicky and ridiculously smooth. While deciding on entrees, we worked our way through the Combination Snack, a longstanding menu item featuring wedges of Syrian bread, Muenster cheese, hummus, and Swedish mustard ($9.95). They pointed me to the hummus for good reason. Turns out they're all alumni from one family! And do they ever have Maryland pride - especiall for their alma mater. I met a group of diners, all wearing University of Maryland apparel, and all raving over the veg. The Last Unicorn’s menu is ambitious, and its unifying theme seems to be flavor. Central Maine-based friends suggested the restaurant would be good, but in my ignorance, I expected “good” would include a “for the area” disclaimer. Housemade Harvest Ravioli with Amaretto Cream and Toasted Almonds ($17.95)? North African Spice Rubbed Lamb Rack ($24.95)? Tennessee George’s Sweet Whiskey Grilled Pork Tenderloin ($19.95)? The regular menu includes a long list of perfectly serviceable entrees, but the special menu (printed daily), is where the fun happens. Here is where The Last Unicorn gets interesting. While the wine menu is small, it is varied enough to offer something for almost every taste, and the affordable Hinojosa Malbec ($7 glass/$27 bottle) arrived exactly as promised - smoky with a slight vanilla note, though I found myself wishing the menu had listed the vintage.
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It is a languishing chic motif, but a comfortable one.
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Wide arched windows offer natural light and a street view. Simple bud vases decorate the bare tables, and the napkins (black, thank you) wrap nicely weighted cutlery. Turn right, and the French blue walls, blond wood, and brightly colored paintings feel eclectic, as if moved from an artistic and quirky aunt’s kitchen. With two distinct dining areas and an unusual red crescent booth near the doorway, the sense of space is awkward, but not irrevocably jarring. The seating arrangement is a holdover from its former incarnations. The menu, they reassure locals, is largely the same - the same, inasmuch as the extensive list of special offerings changes each night. The original Last Unicorn opened in 1978, and while the most-recent incarnation closed earlier this year, the restaurant re-launched under the ownership of former Unicorn chef Fred Ouellette and his wife, Amy. Waterville may not be on a gourmand’s immediate travel list, but The Last Unicorn’s legendary menu is worth pursuing. Portland’s reputation as a foodie destination shines so intensely, that it’s easy to overlook Maine’s other sparkles of food culture. Finding a creatively prepared higher-end meal in central Maine? As rare as stumbling upon a unicorn. (For instance, Japan and Africa note unicorn legends.) Some references, though, border on snark. Others offer bits of broader interest, like how in addition to Bible mentions, unicorns appear throughout both Eastern and Western history.
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Some are weirdly regional, like in 1933 when a University of Maine professor engineered a bull with a unicorn-style horn. When a restaurant’s name recalls a mythical creature, fun facts and literary devices abound.
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